4. Mid-Layers

Although Captain Jack is usually associated as having no intermediate layer between his shirt and greatcoat, he did on many occasions wear one. This is actually a more proper thing to do, as the greatcoat is cut roomy enough to be worn over tunic and in the R.A.F. would never ever be worn directly over a shirt. Given how John was often picture between takes in an oversized puffy coat over his greatcoat suggests that the character might've actually benefitted from an extra layer of insulation for filming the colder scenes, though under hot studio lights indoors this may have become uncomfortable.

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4.1. MOD R.A.F. Battledress blouson:
Although the No1 Service Dress is still in use in today’s R.A.F. (albeit with a slightly different design), the Battledress worn by Jack has been discontinued. The British Battledress was favoured by U.S. General (later president) Dwight D. Eisenhower, who adapted the blouson design to be used within the American military.

    4.1.1. Squadron Leader:
In keeping with correct military uniform, when we first meet Jack during the London Blitz he is seen wearing a Battledress blouson under his greatcoat. On his left side is a winged R.A.F. badge and Distinguished Flying Cross ribbon. The shoulder straps match his coat’s rank of Squadron Leader. A military reënactment supplier would be the best place to source this Battledress jacket, replica DFC ribbon, et cetera.

Promotional shot from Captain Jack's introduction back in 2005.

    4.1.2. Group Captain:
For the 2008 Torchwood Trading Card Collection, Barrowman was photographed in a recreation of his Blitz look for card 145. This blouson was identical to the 2005 one except for the rank being upped to Group Captain, presumably to try and keep continuity with his Torchwood look. Though if you want a canon explanation for this change, this photo probably represents the time spent by immortal Jack whilst living through the entire 20th century rather than his con artist days.

As far as I'm aware this is the only photograph released of Jack in the Group Captain Battledress, though presumably more exist.

4.2. Belstaff blouson:
During the opening two episodes of Torchwood, Jack would wear a tan coloured Belstaff blouson whenever he left the Hub. This cotton biker jacket features a check wool lining and chocolate brown corduroy around the collar and inner waistband. The clearest shots of this garment without the coat covering it can be seen when Jack talks to Gwen at the bar in the first episode.

I've always been a fan of this look, it gives a bit of realistic variety to his wardrobe.

The exact name of this model isn’t known as it isn’t specified in any of the interior labels and online documentation from this era is long gone, though the Lawrence model has been posed as a possibility. There are also several blouson models that are nearly identical to Jack’s, the features distinct to the screen accurate one include princess seams at the rear, a larger brand logo on the sleeve, and the corduroy on the inside waistband.

Shots of the jacket, including when it was listed for auction (bottom right) where it looks surprisingly well used.

4.3. Angels waistcoat:
By far the most commonly worn mid-layer between his shirt and greatcoat was Captain Jack’s waistcoat, utilised semi-regularly throughout the first two series. This waistcoat was always paired with his cotton flat fronted trousers. I’m not sure why but if I had to guess it might be that these more modern style trousers with their slightly lower rise better allow the holster to be worn, as on higher waisted trousers the belt it’s attached to would be hidden beneath the waistcoat.

Magazine photos showing a lot of the key details of the front. Notice the length of the waistcoat.

• Charcoal grey front with brown pinstripes, likely a worsted flannel or similar matte wool.
• Dark grey fine twill lining fabric rear (matches the greatcoat lining).
• Pointed base style.
• Notch lapels, these subduct into the shoulder seam rather than having a collar that goes around the back.
• Moderately low rise, it comes down to just below the shirt’s third button.
• Shoulders are fairly wide too and appear to be slightly bias cut.
• Period correct length (shorter than modern waistcoats).
• 6 button opening (15mm black 4 hole buttons).
• 3 thick welt pockets (~20mm welts), the lower pockets are positioned fractionally below the fourth button whereas the wearer’s upper left pocket is inline with the second button.
• No front darts.
• Rear chinch belt with steel buckle.

If you do commission a custom waistcoat then these are the details to get right. The fabric is a bit tricky as brown pinstripes are unusual on a grey background, but white pinstripes could be turned brown through the use of a fine fabric pen. It is possible that the stripes aren't this colour and it's some trick of the lighting, so use your own judgement there,

This waistcoat was the most frequently worn mid-layer.

The key thing about this waistcoat is the length. Modern trousers tend to be cut below the natural waist. This means that their rise is lower, which in turn necessitates a longer waistcoat to hide the gap. Pretty much all modern off-the-peg waistcoats are cut comically long, to the point that having the bottom button undone is a requirement in order to sit down and not have the front get pushed upwards and crumple. A shorter (correct) length waistcoat like Jack’s sits on the body much more naturally and is visually more appealing as it is more flattering to the wearer’s proportions. I’ve seen many replicas of vintage style waistcoats that are ruined by being cut much longer than they should be. The wider shoulders are another period detail that makes the waistcoat look more professional, many modern waistcoats are very narrow over the shoulders, more like a thermal vest.

Note that Jack wears his waistcoat’s lowest button undone, a style popularised in Britain during the early 20th century (there are various theories as to the exact origin). His waistcoat is however cut short enough that he could wear it fully buttoned without it being an issue.

Sean Connery in 1964’s Goldfinger (left) compared to a pretty typical modern off-the-peg alternative (right). See how stupidly long and unflattering the modern waistcoat is by comparison, it should be a few inches shorter but because modern trousers are low rise it would leave a gap if cut to the correct length and paired with them. Nearly all waistcoats made today have this issue, even a lot of bespoke ones that are supposed to be replicas of vintage pieces. Go check out some modern replicas of period outfits and you'll see the proportions of the waistcoat to the coat are often all off.

4.4. Belstaff utility vest:
This piece was only seen during the flashback scenes in Fragments, meaning that Jack canonically wore it from at least the late 1990’s up until the mid 2000’s. Made out of a tan cotton canvas with an unusual backless design, this was likely intended as a hunting or fishing vest, though Jack uses it more as a tactical vest.

See how it attaches around the back much like an apron. I assume this is to make it fit a variety of sizes, but may also allow more breathability in warm weather.

Much like the blouson, the name of this model isn’t known, even by Belstaff themselves as when I contacted them they said the records from this period have been lost. The closest model I could find is the Castmaster (a fishing vest) but even that has some pretty significant differences. The brand is only confirmed thanks to the logo on the zip pull. Unlike the blouson however, to the best of my knowledge no other examples of this vest have never been found by a fan, suggesting it was made in low numbers.

One of the very few close-ups of this vest from when it was on display somewhere.